Monday, December 10, 2007

Fruitcake - More Than Just A Doorstop



Fruitcake Defense

Every year I hear it, “I hate fruitcake!” “It’s a terrible gift!” “This thing could be a doorstop.” And the ultimate fruitcake insult from Johnny Carson, “I’m convinced there’s only one fruitcake in the world and it just gets passed along from person to person, year after year.”

The earliest reference to fruitcake comes from Roman times when it was used as a wedding cake packed with figs and pomegranates. Fruitcake was popular as a holiday cake and a wedding cake in the Middle Ages.

In the Middle ages, it was a custom for single people to take a slice of the wedding cake home and put it under their pillow to sleep on and the sweetness of the cake would seep into their dreams and reveal the one they would marry, hence the expression, “sweet dreams”. Sounds like a charming tradition to me, except of course for the ants that would come after the cake, but hey, no tradition is perfect. Besides, what’s a ear full of ants when you’re about to dream of your beloved. I’m not sure how the fruitcake revelations squared with the arranged marriages of the time...
“Father, I can’t marry Elmore. I dreamt of a better man coming for me.”
“It’s Elmore you’ll marry daughter, and that’s final!”
“But I don’t love him!”
“This is the middle ages, daughter! We have a life expectancy of 35 years and you’re already 20! I’m 37 and your mother is already gone. Now, Elmore is giving me 2 cows and 6 chickens for you. It’s a good trade. You’re a 2 cow maiden if there ever was one. Think of your little brothers and sisters. Think of the milk and cheese they’ll have if you forgo your existential bid for happiness and simply live a miserable life and succumb to plague like the rest of us.”

In the 1700’s fruitcake survived as teacake in England. Delicious tiny fruitcakes were served with tea. Experimenting with different fruits, spices and shapes for the little cakes was a leisurely pastime and there were even contests and prizes for Best Teacake.

Fruitcake made it to Ireland, again as a special occasion cake for holidays and weddings. Of course, my people added a special ingredient to the fruitcake, to help preserve the fruit of course. One of the earliest recipes for Irish Wedding Cake, from the 1400’s, begins with currants and berries soaked in whiskey for three days. The same recipe ends with pouring “2 ladles of whiskey o’er the cake for flavor and to well preserve it.”

My family still adheres to the adding of a ladle or two of a flavored spirit to a fruitcake just to soften it and of course, to preserve it. I can honestly say no fruitcake has ever spoiled in my home. Matter of fact, I age them for years and they just get better. Of course, you can’t drive after you’ve had my fruitcake.
“Which fruitcake are you serving this year, Sally?”
“I’m thinking of serving one of the 1982’s. That was such a good year.”
“Sounds wonderful. Serve that to the family, give the non-family the 2001.”
“OK. Here, let me open the 1982. Care to smell the cake tin?”
“Ahhhh...... an excellent year.”

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